Hampta Pass – A tale of two valleys

After conquering few forts in the Sahyadris, I decided to go one step further (technically several kilometres further :P) and trek the Himalayas. As always, my thought was followed by tons of research and brainstorming with my fellow wanderer. I wanted to go for a trek which is beautiful but not too difficult (considering my limited experience in this activity). We finally zeroed down on Hampta Pass trek.

About Hampta Pass trek:  This is a trek connecting two lovely valleys in Himachal Pradesh – Kullu and Spiti. The trek route spans across scenic landscapes such as snow-capped mountains, gushing rivers, glacial valleys, and lush meadows. It takes about 4 days to complete the trek, and many trek organisers add one more day to include a visit to the beautiful Chandrataal, a high altitude alpine lake. After some more research and analysis, we registered for the trek with one of the organised groups.

Mumbai – Chandigarh – Manali:

Our trek was to start from Manali. We took a flight from Mumbai to Chandigarh, where once again, our generous friends (who had accommodated us at 4.30 am when we were returning from Ladakh) showered us with their hospitality. Vijay and Seema, we can never thank you enough for your kindness! We spent the day with them, enjoying yummy Punjabi food, and then left for Manali by a private bus at night. Chandigarh-Manali takes about 10 hours; we reached Manali at around 9 am the following day, and checked into Hotel Shandela for the day. It is a nice hotel, reasonably priced, with all basic facilities in place, and a very helpful manager, Mr. Nayan Singh. We spent the afternoon roaming around Mall road, and went for our scheduled briefing with the trek lead in the evening, held at Manali Nature Park. Manali Nature Park is not a well known tourist spot, or even a landmark (locals were unaware!), but it is quite a nice place, with a nice view of Beas river and lots of trees and greenery around.

The briefing turned out to be quite a learning experience. We learnt the origin of names of some places – Manali, Hampta, Rohtang, etc, and some do’s and don’ts for the trek. Our trek lead also demonstrated what to pack and how to pack for the trek (which meant after returning to our hotel, we had to redo our entire packing!) After the briefing, we visited Hadimba temple and dined in Old Manali, before retiring to our hotel. Old Manali has several cafes, and we visited River Music cafe, as it was closest to the river. The food was good, and dining next to the flowing river was a serene experience.

And the trek begins…

Day 1: The entire team (26 trekkers and 2 trek leads) met at Rambagh Circle at around 7 am, boarded cabs and started off towards Jobra, which was about 1.5 hours away. The route to Jobra consisted of 40 hairpin bends, and is lined with pine trees. It provided a beautiful panoramic view of Kullu valley as we proceeded towards Jobra.

Upon reaching Jobra, we had already gained some altitude and were at 9,800 feet. Our task for the day was to trek 4 km in 4 hours, from Jobra to Jwara (our campsite for the night). Our trail took us through the forest for about half an hour, followed by a lush meadow of Chikha. The Rani Nullah comes into view and flows directly in between the meadow.

Rani Nullah flowing between the green meadows

There was a wooden bridge, which could be crossed by one person at a time, and it was fun crossing it. We continued on the left bank of Rani Nullah, and the climb was mainly through stones and boulders. After heading towards the river, we took off our shoes, formed a human chain, and crossed the icy cold water!

Trekkers crossing the Rani river on a wooden bridge

The trek was tougher than I had anticipated, in terms of terrain. We reached our campsite, which was at an altitude of 11,000 feet, and spent the rest of the day getting to know one another and playing team games.

Day 2: The next day we started off towards Balu ka Gera, our next camp location. This was a short acclimatisation trek to prepare us for the following’s day ardous trek to Hampta pass. Balu ka Gera means mound of sand, and is said to have been formed by sand and dust brought by the river; thus, the name.  We covered around 5 km in about 4 hours, and reached an altitude of over 12,000 feet. I found the terrain much better to traverse than the previous day. It was dotted with beautiful tiny pink and yellow flowers around the campsite. We could see Mt. Indrahsen peak on our left and Hanuman Tibba on our right. We could also see the ledges of rocks going up to the Hampta pass giving us a feel of the next day’s adventure.

Mt. Indrahsen from Balu ka Ghera campsite

Day 3: This was the D-day…the day of the summit…the day we would actually cross Hampta Pass. Our target was to cover a distance of almost 10 km in not more than 10 hours – from Balu ka Gera to Shea Goru via Hampta Pass. Needless to say, this was also the most taxing day, with pressure to reach our destination within the scheduled time, declining oxygen levels as we gained altitude (we were going to reach about 14,200 feet!), and continuous ascent (which really tested our stamina). The climb to the Pass is moderately steep with some patches involving ascending on snow.

The steep climb to Pass on a snow

But all our challenges were overshadowed by the sheer beauty of the trail, going through valleys, climbing rocks, watching the river flowing below, and even walking on snow!

After climbing for some time. we could see Deo Tibba from the plateau. Reaching the summit was exhilarating! We spent some time at the Pass, catching our breath, clicking loads of pictures, and of course, feeling proud of ourselves.

Majestic view from Hampta Pass

The second part of that day’s trek was mainly descent. And that is when we entered into Spiti valley. Our trail included steep rocky patches on the way, where we had to be careful. As we neared our campsite, we came to a snowy slope. And what better way to descend on snow than sliding! 😀 For me, this was the best part of the entire trek.. sliding on the snow like a kid!!

The rest of the day was spent relaxing in our tents and clicking pictures at the riverside. We were camping at Shea Goru, which means ‘valley of snow’.

Shea Goru Campsite beside Shea River

Day 4: Having completed the main part of our trek, we were visibly relaxed on day 4. However, the start of our route for the day shook us from our self-congratulatory mode as we had to walk bare-feet across a cold river (We were in the valley of snow after all!). We made a human chain and slowly crossed the freezing river. By the time we got to the other side, our legs had become numb. We spent few minutes spot-jogging and then set off on the last leg of our trek. This was mostly descent, and we could see Chatru road at a distance from the peak. We were moving along the Chandra river. Crossing the last glacier, and after about 4 hours, we reached Chatru, our last camping location.

Chandra River flowing along the Chatru Road

From Chatru, we took cabs for Chandrataal, which was ~70 km away. Camping was not allowed at Chandrataal, hence we had to return to Chatru by evening. It took us about 3-4 hours to reach, due to bad conditions of the road. Vehicles are allowed only up to a certain point, after which we had to hike for about 10-15 mins to reach the lake.

The splendid Chandratal Lake

The lake was beautiful, and we spent some time enjoying the cool breeze, before heading back to our camp.

Day 5: On the last day, our efforts were recognised in the form of completion certificates 🙂 Thereafter, we spent some time with the team, and then boarded cabs which dropped us at Manali, signifying the end of our adventure.

Special acknowledgement:

We would especially like to acknowledge the efforts, help and guidance of our trek leads – Soumya Mitra and Tanmay, and our trek guides – Sunil and Ravi, without whom we could not have completed the feat. All of them have abundant knowledge about the Himalayan region, and a lot of experience in trekking, which they shared with us throughout the time spent together. They expertly guided us through the difficult terrain and also taught us a lot about camping, pitching tents, using sleeping bags, rescue operations, etc.  And of course, the support staff, including the wonderful chefs who prepared delicious meals for us (would you believe they prepared gajar ka halwa and cake right there?!) Thanks a ton all of you! 🙂

Manali – Chandigarh – Mumbai:

We stayed in Manali for a day (again, in Hotel Shandela), and had lunch in a small restaurant called Mom’s Kitchen. True to its name, the food tasted home-made and delicious. In the evening, we went to explore Old Manali. This area has lots of lodging options (with rates as low as Rs. 300 per person per night). As mentioned before, there are several cafes here, serving various cuisines. In most of these cafes, the day’s special was fresh trout. Many of the cafes also have live music performances. We dined in People’s Cafe, ordering fresh trout, and it  was delightful.

Next morning, we went shopping for souvenirs on Mall road, Model town, and Ibex market. In the evening, we took a bus to Chandigarh, and finally a flight back to Mumbai, home sweet home.

Tips and tricks:

1. First things first. Contrary to what is mentioned on some websites, Hampta Pass is NOT a beginner’s trek. At least not for someone who is altogether a stranger to trekking or any other regular fitness training. To be able to cover Hampta Pass somewhat comfortably, please be physically (or at least, mentally) prepared for the long hours, tough terrain, and fatigue. If possible, work on your physical fitness before embarking on this trail.
2. Pack very very light. Take only bare necessities with you. Do not pack for ‘if’ situations.
3. You can plan on your own, but would still need a guide to show you the way through the mountains and valleys (we did not come across any locals whatsoever during the trek). Plus, there are some permits involved. So it is advisable to book through a trekking group. (We had chosen indiahikes and were happy with the experience, but I have not tried other groups yet, so I’ll reserve my comments).
4. Respect the mountains and maintain cleanliness please. We had gone a step further and carried ‘eco bags’ with us, collecting non biodegradable waste (wrappers, plastic bottles, etc.) left behind by others.
5. Trust your trek leads/ guides and discuss all issues with them. They know it best.

Magnificent Dudhsagar Waterfall: Trek to it if you have plenty of luck or stamina!

About Dudhsagar Waterfall:

Dudhsagar waterfall is one of India’s tallest waterfalls with a height of over 1000 feet and an average width of 100 feet. It is four-tiered waterfall located on the Mandovi River, inside the Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary, in Sanguem district of Goa, close to the border with Karnataka. Though perennial, the beauty of the waterfall increases multi-fold during the rainy season. From a distance, the waterfall appears like streams of milk rushing down the mountainside.

Dudhsagar literally means ‘Sea of Milk’. According to legend, there was once a princess who used to bathe in the waterfall, and drink milk from a golden jug thereafter. Once, as she finished her bath and was drinking her usual jug of milk, she noticed a prince watching her. She poured the milk to form a curtain to hide her modesty and that is how the fall gets its name.

How to reach:
By train: The falls can be reached by a train journey from Vasco or Margao. At Kulem (or Collem), there is a railway station where the train stops to pick up passengers for the journey to the waterfalls. There are two trains a day that halt at Dudhsagar and it is possible to catch a morning train up and spend several hours at the falls before taking an afternoon train back.
By road: The easiest way to reach the waterfall is to take a 4×4 vehicle to the Dudhsagar taxi stand and hike the one km distance from the dropping point. Tours operated by GTDC (Goa Tourism Development Corporation) have Dudhsagar Waterfall as one of the tour stops, and several private operators also offer trips to the Waterfall. However, the roads leading to the waterfall, maintained by the Goa Forest Department, remain closed during monsoons and open in October.
By trek: The nearest rail station accessible by road to the falls is Castle Rock station, about 14 km from Dudhsagar falls. Visitors can either trek the 14km stretch or board a train from Castle Rock and disembark at the Dudhsagar halt. Or you can take a train up to Kulem and trek about 13km to the falls. It is to be noted that the Dudhsagar rail stop is not a station where passengers can expect a platform. Passengers and visitors have to climb down the ladder of the rail compartment in a short 1-2 minute unscheduled stop. From this rail stop, visitors have to walk about a kilometer on the tracks to arrive at the falls. This includes crossing a 200m train tunnel, which is totally dark, making the walk a bit tougher.

Our experience:

We visited Dudhsagar at the beginning of September. As mentioned above, the roads to the falls are closed in monsoon. But the beauty of the Waterfall is enhanced during rainy season. So our only options remained train or trek. Some of our friends decided to reach Kulem by train late night, and trek about 13km to reach the Waterfall. The rest of us decided to travel by train right up to Dudhsagar; we were counting on being able to alight at the unscheduled halt 😛 Both groups were expected to reach Dudhsagar at the same time.

Why did some people choose the arduous trek from Kulem if there was a train halting at Dudhsagar itself? Well, of late, there were instances of Railway Police Force (RPF) not allowing large groups to alight at Dudhsagar as there had been some mishaps at the falls recently. As the only way to reach the falls is by crossing railway tracks, safety becomes a concern, especially in case of large groups. Also, there have been instances of people falling off the slippery rocks. Hence, until safety measures are improved, RPF decided to restrict the number of visitors by preventing them from alighting from the train itself. Therefore, some of our friends took the Hubli express (starting from Lokmanya Tilak Terminus) and alighted at Londa. From Londa, they took a private vehicle to Kulem, and started their trek around 3am. The route included a jungle trek (including crossing 3 river streams), and walking on rail tracks. (In my humble opinion, such a route would seem scenic and adventurous during the day, but is neither safe nor enjoyable at night.) They reached Dudhsagar at around 6.30am.

What about the lazier group? Well, we took the Goa express from Pune (from Mumbai to Pune, we went by bus), had a comfortable journey, and managed to alight at Dudhsagar. We then proceeded towards the falls and once crossed the tunnel we saw the first view of the falls. It was beautiful! After a walk of about 1km from Dudhsagar station, we reached the magnificent falls at around 6am! 🙂

The two groups then merged, and after spending some time at the falls, we started our return journey. After walking for few minutes, we saw the Waterfall from the Kulem route, which gives a view of the falls with a railway bridge in between. The view is enhanced when a train crosses the bridge. We then trekked through Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary and spent some time in a river stream on the way. We reached Sonaulim railway station after trekking about 4 kms, from where we boarded a train to Kulem (the alternative is to trek the 6km from Sonaulim to Kulem, but it is mostly through railway tracks, which gets boring after a while, not to mention, risky).

At Kulem, we checked into a guest house, had lunch, and rested for few hours. We then returned to Kulem station, and boarded the train to Madgaon (Margoa). From Madgaon, we boarded Matsyagandha express and reached Mumbai early next morning.

The biggest challenge for both groups was reaching Dudhsagar, with one relying on their stamina and the other on luck. The return journey was relatively uneventful. Nevertheless, we came back with a sense of accomplishment 🙂

Tips and tricks:

1. Research well before deciding on your route, which would also depend on the season and your appetite for adventure!
2. Carry adequate food and water. Dudhsagar waterfall has no facilities whatsoever, so you’ll find no food, drinking water, or toilets for few hours until you reach the nearest railway station or guest house.
3. There are monkeys at the Waterfall, so make sure your food is well hidden inside your bags. (You can also carry a small damru to ward off the monkeys.)
4. If you plan on following the trekking route, you might encounter leeches in your jungle trail, so keep salt or matchbox handy. It is also advisable to wear full sleeved t-shirts and long-bottomed track pants. Trekking shoes are a must.
5. A word of caution: If you plan to go by train, and RPF officials prevent you from visiting Dudhsagar, please heed their advice. Also, be careful while walking on railway tracks and through railway tunnels, and always watch out for oncoming trains. Also, tread with caution at the Waterfall, as the rocks are slippery and the barricades are not very robust.

Cost: Approx. Rs. 1,500-2,000 per person (including train tickets, food and guest house charges).